My frustration with off-the-rack button down shirts is about what it is to be a female in a female body trying to like, or at least be a good friend, my body. It's about feeling like my body shape doesn't conform...just doesn't.
It's also about liking myself and my body. I don't want to be trapped in ill-fitting clothing. I don't want to look down and ask "who am I , what am I doing in this?" It's about not wanting temporary clothing that can't stay in good shape and isn't built for mending.
That's why making my own button-up shirts...even on day 3 of sewing and modifying muslins...still seems like a rational solution.
In retrospect the more rational solution would have been: sew a simple top...because I've only made 3 structured tops for dance (and a bunch of halter tops) and those invoked luck and magic and moments I cannot replicate. I've put sleeves in something once and they scare me and I believe that necromancy is involved in understanding sleeves.
No. I had to go FULL BUTTON DOWN.
Because I believe if I can make this, all other top permutations will be easy-peasy.
I've made my first collar. I know what a placket is now and how absurd it is that Sew U thought a few lines of instruction and an illustration would allow me to insert a continuous placket! House placket, believe not in the existence of other plackets for beginners.
I have only passing familiarity with making button holes...but I will master it.
Last night I set a sleeve. It went in just fine. I then moved my arm and the illusion of a workable shirt was gone.
Prior to last night I thought that sleeve holes just needed to allow your arm out. Hole done, arm free. Ok! I understand, only now, that they must be coddled and perfected.
You have to caress the fabric gently until it is lays down in full submission and then you pin it. Pin that sucker! Is it after midnight? Are you alone? Do you risk pinning your own flesh because you don't have a dress form of your dimensions made? Suck it up! Blood makes it the shirt sew!
I now know that most commercial patterns and off the rack clothing err on the side of arm holes that are cut too deep below the armpits and that this is an aggression that enrages your shirt sleeves into taking your breasts hostage if you dream of lifting your arms.
I'm looking at a lot of armpits and sleeve holes on the train.
In all of this I read many blogs suggesting that arm hole placement can be tricky and that it is easier to copy an existing shirt you have that fits.
I have about 4 non-stretch shirts with sleeves. I put each one on and moved my arms around. I understood now why I only wear them in summer, open, over t-shirts or tank tops. I own no non-stretch shirts with sleeves that actually fit me.
I understood that the journey I am on is a hero's journey.
This morning, with an old futon cover that no lingers fits any futon I own...I made a lovely armhole.

It resembles the original pattern armhole only in the fact that it contains an absence of fabric through which my arm may freely pass.
When I get home I will mark the seams and rip this apart to fashion my latest front/back pattern.

fabric I want to use...but first I must make business stuff.